Embarking on our Alaskan journey, we never imagined that a feat of engineering—a mighty oil pipeline—would be part of our conversation day after day. Yet, Alaska is a land of unexpected wonders. This vital artery, filled with crude oil and sustaining the communities it touches, emerged as an unforgettable phenomenon, etching itself into our summer in Alaska memories.
“Alyeska” is a term with deep roots in Alaska’s history and culture. It is an archaic spelling of “Alaska” from the Aleut language, generally translating to “mainland,” “great country,” or "great land." It's the name associated with the Alyeska Pipeline.
The Alyeska Pipeline "cutout" stands alongside the pipeline. This photo is taken at the beginning of the Gold Dredge 8 tour, approximately 400 miles south of the pipeline start.
Alaska is an enormously vast land of beauty and untamed wilderness and home to one of the engineering marvels of the 20th century—the Trans-Alaska Pipeline System (TAPS). The pipeline passes right through the entrance to Gold Dredge 8. Several times a day, we walk underneath the structure as we guide guests from the parking lot to the train which brings them to the dredge.
Before beginning every tour, our commentator takes time to talk about the pipeline. The pipeline is a subject of curiosity for many visitors to Alaska and a fact of life to those who live near its length.
George, a commentator for the Gold Dredge 8 tour, standing in the center facing the guests, begins with an informative talk about the pipeline.
Precious metal gold made Alaska an economically desirable place to live, and black gold (yes, a reference to the “Ballad of Jed Clampett”) plays a giant role in keeping Alaska alive. Since the pipeline is very much part of our experience, we thought we’d fill you in on what we have learned about this fascinating structure during our time here.
Black Gold Rush
In the peaceful town of Fairbanks, in the mid-70s, life was about to change dramatically. There were only two police officers in town. Suddenly, a trickle of newcomers turned into a flood almost overnight. The pipeline project was no longer just a rumor, it became reality. The pipeline set off a modern-day gold rush, drawing thousands from across the globe to the Last Frontier. Men and women from the lower 48 states, welders from Oklahoma, truckers from Texas, and even laborers from as far as South America and Ireland, all converged on Alaska. It also brought Dexter Clark, one of Gold Dredge 8’s colorful commentators.
Walking through 800 miles of Frontier
TAPS transports on average 475,000 barrels of oil per day from the frigid icy north of Prudhoe Bay in the Arctic Ocean to Valdez of the Pacific Ocean. Spanning a staggering 800 miles, it’s a safe passage for oil to pass through the Alaskan rugged terrain. The oil is maintained at a comfortable temperature of 111°F (44°C), ensuring it flows smoothly like a river through the pipeline’s core.
A barrel of oil’s trek through Alaska takes about two weeks. Moving about 4 mph, the barrels walk over three mountain ranges, the Brooks, Alaska, and Chugach and over 800 bodies of water. As well as crossing a diverse landscape, every barrel is protected from temperature swings of -80°F in the winter to as high as 95°F in the summer.
Standing under the pipeline with an auxiliary pump station.
Guests at Gold Dredge 8 walk directly underneath to board the train.
Elevated Above the Rest
For approximately half of its length, the pipeline runs over the ground, not under. The reason lies in its ingenious design, aimed at protecting the delicate permafrost and facilitating the free movement of Alaska’s wildlife. The aboveground path is a conscious effort to reduce environmental impact and simplify maintenance. The pipeline travels underground when crossing bodies of water and roadways.
The pipeline heads underground to cross the Steese Highway in Fox, Alaska.
Grizzlies, Moose, and Caribou
The pipeline is built to have minimum disruption for Alaska’s furry inhabitants. Elevated sections allow clearance for animal crossings underneath, and strict regulations are in place to protect the ecosystem. The pipeline crosses an important corridor for the Central Arctic and Nelchina herds. Special consideration is given to provide for migratory patterns. The bears have been known to use the vertical posts to scratch their backs, an added benefit.
Squealing Pigs
The pipeline also has a state-of-the-art leak detection systems and various “pigs” which clean, inspect, and maintain the pipe. The insertion of the pigs helps keep the oil flowing smoothly. The pigs are known to emit a distinctive squealing sound as they travel through the pipeline, which is why they’re called “pigs” in the first place. If you are near the pipeline, and hear a pig squealing, it’s just doing its job.
A cutout showing sample "pigs."
TAPS’ VSMs
Here is an acronym to add to TAPS: VSMs. To prevent the hot oil in the pipeline from melting Alaska’s permafrost, vertical support members dissipate heat from the ground underneath to ensure permafrost keeps the “perma” in its name. Quite simply, if the permafrost melts, the support system becomes unstable because the melting ground would shift. (Remind me to write a blog about permafrost.)
Without getting too geeky, know that VSMs use a passive means of heat transfer to remove heat from the ground and dissipate it through fins above, ensuring the permafrost remains undisturbed by the warm oil coursing through the pipeline.
The VSMs cooling radiator fins rise above the pipeline.
Shaking Off the Quakes
On November 3, 2002, the Denali Fault in Interior Alaska, put the pipeline to a shaky test. An earthquake with a 7.9 magnitude, moved the ground an estimated 18 feet horizontally and nearly 2.5 feet vertically beneath the pipeline. The pipeline survived the largest inland earthquake in North America in 150 years, with no significant damage; all by design. The Denali Fault Earthquake caused seiches (sloshing) in bodies of water as far away as Texas and Louisiana.
When following the pipeline on its path from the top to the bottom of the state, we’d notice it doesn’t take the most direct route, but can be found zigzagging. Flexible joints and zigzag configurations allow it to sway with seismic waves. The zigzag and flexible joints demonstrate the brilliant engineering that accommodates intense seismic movements.
This graphic shows many features of the pipeline design.
Economic Lifeline
Some outsiders arriving in Alaska look at the pipeline as an intrusion to the people and landscape of Alaska. But a reality check tells us that crude oil is necessary to enjoy Alaska. Nobody walks from the lower 48 to get to Alaska. People arrive on a plane, ship and travel in motor coaches on asphalt roads. They carry along water bottles and cell phones made with plastic. When going camping, specialty fabrics, such as nylon and polyester, aid them against the elements of the frontier. Even bear spray uses byproducts from crude oil.
TAPS isn’t just a pipeline; it’s Alaska’s financial backbone. By the early ‘80s, it funded nearly 90% of the state’s government. It supports thousands of jobs and has pumped over 17 billion barrels of oil, contributing billions to Alaska’s GDP. At a price of $70 per barrel the daily throughput of 485,000 barrels is worth over $33.95 million. The Alaska Permanent Fund, born from TAPS’ revenues, secures dividends for residents and the state’s future. It’s not an understatement to say stopping the pipeline would have dire consequences on Alaska’s economy.
47 Years Young
TAPS was completed in 1977 and was initially expected to transport oil for about 35 years, or until around 2011. However, due to continuous maintenance and upgrades, the life expectancy has increased. In 2003, the federal government renewed its right of way for an additional 30 years, extending the apparent life expectancy to 2034. This extension reflects the pipeline’s importance to Alaska’s economy, the solid design, and the effectiveness of ongoing maintenance.
Engineering Built Alaska
The pipeline is more than a conduit for oil; it’s another reminder that it takes a lot of guts and ingenuity to forge through this rugged landscape. Alaska is a land of immense natural resources. In the 1920’s, engineers built mighty gold dredges to mine valuable gold. Fifty years later, engineers designed an amazing pipeline to forge its way through the Last Frontier to bring oil to heat our homes and fuel transportation. Engineering’s vital contribution to Alaska’s progress is undeniable and commands our admiration.
The lady in the middle, an Alaskan resident, worked on a surveying crew for the pipeline. Her crew physically visited a section of the route, hammered stakes into the ground, and detailed the preliminary route. She was a delight to talk with and had many interesting stories to tell.
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